Zoran Tomasevic (954) 568-1692

(I had the honor of shooting "The Last Stand '98" with a lot of shooters from the Gold Coast Gunslingers. They were an enjoyable group and full of spirit.. .or something! Check them out, if you get the chance.)

Pete Smith (941) 956-2435

Lou Martucci (352) 483-1873

William Sandeson (941) 261-2892

Fred Marangio (561) 288-6210

 As you can see, there is a shoot available every weekend somewhere in Florida. This is not an exhaustive listing and please call to double check the information before driving to any of these events. The growth of this sport is phenomenal, when I originally compiled this information three years ago ('96) there were only three clubs available statewide.

As with any of the shooting sports, cowboy action style shooting (CASS) can be expensive. Most require that you have at least three firearms: a single-action revolver, a lever-action rifle and a shotgun, either a double barrel side-by-side or an externally hammered pump action. Some of the larger matches require you to have or use a second pistol. You must also compete in some form of western costume, whether Old West or "B'~ movie western style clothing. By now I'm sure that your are asking yourself "Just how the heck can I afford to do all this stuff?" Relax, where there's a will, there's a way....

Most clubs here in Florida are not so rigid that they have forgotten that you have to start somewhere. Although the hope is that you will eventually make an effort to own period accurate clothing and possibly firearms, you will not be prevented from participating if you show up in modern western clothing with modern replica firearms. However, if you show up wearing a baseball cap, a tee-shirt and running shoes, you will not be allowed to participate. SASS has banned the wearing of modern western clothing, starting with EOT '98.

Most any single-action revolver will do, if it is .32 caliber or larger. So you can use that adjustable sighted Ruger that you probably own. (Doesn't everyone have a Ruger single-action?) Your rifle must be in a pistol caliber (no magnum rounds allowed) and it is helpful to you to have both the pistol and rifle in the same caliber. (Less ammo to carry and mix up) The shotgun presents the most problem to most people. It must be either a side by side or an externally hammered pump action, like the Winchester '97. If a side by side, it can't have auto ejectors or they must be disabled. It can be a lever action like the Winchester 1887. You can even use a single shot break open but you will be at a disadvantage on the time clock. Allowed gauges are 20, 16, 12 and 10. Again, no magnums are allowed. Most clubs have some kind of restriction as to shot size, also.

You will find that most folks involved in this sport are a right friendly bunch and many will loan you whatever equipment you are lacking. (Even if you shoot better than them with it!) Watch the gun shows, newspaper classified, garage sales, or your neighborhood gun shop. An occasional bargain may crop up.

You are restricted in the type of ammo that you may use. Your cartridges must be loaded with all-lead bullets (no jacketed, halfjackets or copper wash allowed) and it is restricted to 1000 feet per second or less from the revolver, 1400 feet per second or less from the rifle. Again, it is helpful to have both the rifle and the revolver in the same caliber, although not absolutely necessary. Since your ammo will be loaded in the magazine tube of a lever-action rifle, it should have flat noses to prevent the possibility of a chain fire.

There were two basic styles of holster in use in the Old West. The earlier design was the California pattern or commonly called the "Slim Jim" pattern. Originally designed for cap and ball pistols, this holster was a slim, snug fitting design with the belt loop stitched to the back of the holster. Since it was originally designed for cap and ball pistols, the belt 1oop was fit rather tightly to the belt, which had no cartridge 1oops. The later design came to be known as the "Mexican Loop" pattern. Here there is a large slotted skirt, with one or more slots cut into it. The holster is inserted into these slots and creates its own large belt loop. This allows the holster to slide over the cartridge loops if necessary. The Mexican Loop pattern very quickly became popular and was the most prevalent holster pattern seen in the 1875-1890s time period.

The low slung holster rig, with the holster hung from a slot cut into the belt is called the "Buscadero" pattern. It was not seen in the Old West, since it was commonly thought to have been designed in the 1 920s. It is the product of Hollywood, since it made a fast draw possible. Most Buscadero rigs require the use of a leg tie down to secure the holster during the draw and a hammer thong or loop to secure the gun, since most holsters fit loosely (or have a metal insert) in order to allow a fast draw.

Forget about absolute authenticity at first. Go for a comfortable look that is somewhere in the middle. (Semi-thentic, I call it) First are the pants. Period pants were high-waisted, with only a right rear pocket. They had suspender buttons and a button fly. Usually they were made of wool, canvas or denim. Mail order or retail, these pants can cost about $65. I can just about cut that in half.

Get a pair of Levi 501 jeans (if you want the button fly, zippers weren't produced back then) or your favorite brand of western blue jean. Make sure they fit in the waist, not too loose. With a seam ripper or a single edge razor blade, remove the belt loops. (Belt loops didn't appear till the 1 920s) Be careful to cut just the stitching that is used to secure the belt loops and not the decorative stitching. Same for the left rear pocket if you really want to look period, otherwise leave it on.

Go to WalMart or any fabric store and buy something called bachelor buttons, no sew buttons or jeans buttons/studs. (A button face with a pointed stud to attach it) You will need six to eight buttons per pair of pants. Measure carefully where you want the suspenders to attach. Push the stud through from the inside of the waistband and center the button face over the point. Tap (gently) in place with a hammer or the provided tool. Hit the button head squarely or you will bend the stud. Wasn't that simple? You now have an reasonably authentic looking pair of pants for half price. (If you have the necessary skill, you may sew a button on for the suspenders, using a heavy thread. The no sew buttons are for us less talented types!)

Shirts can be found at resale shops, western stores or WalMart (in season). Many Old West shirts had a band collar that was designed to be used with a paper or cotton button-on collar. The fit was roomy and loose.

One way to achieve this is to buy shirts at a second hand shop, especially those that have the white pointed collar and a colored body. Using your razor blade, cut the collar off flush with the small 1/2 inch to one inch band of fabric at the neck. Most Old West shirts had no pockets (which is why they wore vests) so remove those carefully if you wish. Most shirts were 4 button front pullovers, so you can have someone sew up the front for you if you wish. Replace your buttons with either wood, bone, or metal buttons. Now you are done.

I found a new, $20 shirt made of pillow ticking fabric that I gave this treatment. I cut off the pocket flaps. It had a band collar, so I didn't need to fool with the neck. I had a local dry cleaner sew up the front into a 4 button placket front and sew shut the unused button holes. Finally, I replaced the plastic buttons with wood. Total cost for the shirt, alterations and buttons was $27. Contast that with the $40 to $50 dollars that most mail order shirts cost. A few months later, I bought three shirts at a thrift store for $7. The seamstress at the dry cleaner altered them to my instructions for $20. I made three reasonably authentic looking shirts for $27, or $9 a piece.

If you choose to wear a vest, make sure that it is squared off along the bottom and not pointed. Most cowboys wore a canvas vest, townspeople, riverboat gamblers and dandys wore the fancier vests.

Hats can be big ticket items. Buy the cheapest, good hat that you can afford (initially) and have it steam shaped and creased to suit you. Usually the store where you buy it will do it for free, or they will charge you a small amount for a hat that you didn't purchase there. Straw hats are acceptable (and a good idea here in Florida). Period straw hats had large flat brims like sombreros and the crown was not creased. They looked more like the shape of an upside down flower pot resting on the brim.

Any cowboy boot will do initially. Accurate boots vary according to the time period. Some general guidelines are no stitching on the toe and little to none on the shaft. Square or round toes. 1-2 inch heels, sometimes underslung. Tall (12" to 16") tops in the stovepipe pattern, meaning straight around the tops, no scallops.

Everybody in the Old West wasn't a cowboy. There were all types of townsfolk, too. Bankers, saloon keepers, blacksmiths, butchers, you name it, they were there. There is much more photo documentation of townspeople than there is of cowboys. Plus the clothing more closely parallels modern dress. These factors make the "townie" a good choice for the person on a budget. For example, one of my outfits is appropriate for a cook, butcher, storekeeper or newspaper man. I wear a band collar shirt, garters, a derby, pants, lace up shoes and a $5 white apron to top it all off If I want to be a newspaper editor, I substitute a visor and wear sleeve stockings over my shirt sleeves. You get the idea? Little changes and additions can create whole new looks rather cheaply.

If you choose the "B" movie western look, your task is much easier. Just try to assemble an outfit that reasonably duplicates what you see in the films. Since historical accuracy wasn't really a high priority with the movie makers of that time, almost anything was worn that "looked" western. Most movie makers knew as much about historically accurate clothing as I know about quantum physics.

Finally, you can choose a modern western look. You will probably be subject to a little good natured ribbing however, there is a lot to be said for using what is readily available locally. Most real cowboys were (and still are) an adaptable lot, using what was available locally, affordable and worked well. If you choose modern western wear, firearms and gunleather, you are no less a cowboy in my estimation, than the man that has $3000 or more tied up in painstakingly accurate gear and clothes. After all, we are all just playing cowboy anyway!

Modern clothes combined with a Ruger single-action, a Marlin or Winchester lever-action and a modern side by side shotgun is an ideal way to dress practically if you ego is strong enough to handle the occasional comments from the authenticity buffs. A suggested outfit for the modernist would be either blue jeans or Carhartt canvas pants, a long sleeve western shirt, felt or straw hat, bandanna and boots, either lacers or pull-ons.

In all styles of dress, you can create a number of "different" outfits rather inexpensively by varying the color of your bandanna or your shirt. (Ask your wife, this is called accessorizing.) No need to change everything at once, now is there?

I was teased a little for wearing the running shoes.. .but then the same people would do everything they could to provide me with the same type of information that you see here. No one was hostile or negative about my first attempt to dress for this sport. Rather, most were extremely helpful to me, either by answering all of my many questions or suggesting ways I could improve my outfit. Many were kind enough to loan me catalogs, old newsletters and photos. It wasn't long before I was dressing with the best of them.

Happy Trails,

Wicked Willie SASS#9377